Barack gives our palates a break

Published: 05 November, 2008

Remember where you were when you saw man first walk on the moon, or heard that Princess Diana had died? What about where you were when you witnessed America elect its first black president? I was tasting a line up of Aussie Gewurztraminers.

Remember where you were when you saw man first walk on the moon, heard Princess Diana died? What about where you were when you witnessed America elect its first black president? I was tasting a line up of Aussie Gewurztraminers.

This is the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show and rules are fairly relaxed, so all the judges set down their glasses and took a break to watch what looks set to be an acceptance speech that will go down in the history books.

Chief of judges and wine writer Max Allen had set the political tone earlier in the day by naming the two tasting panels Obama and McCain. But panel McCain objected and was renamed Biden so we would all be on the winning team.

Which categories impressed?

At the end of day one, more than 250 wines have been tasted with Pinot Gris and Grigio kicking things off. Essex-born Matt Gant, winemaker at First Drop in the Barossa, (and sporting an Obama t-shirt), said: "I think with Pinot Grigio the bar has been lifted. It has moved on since I last judged two years ago." However he wasn't so keen on an overoaked Pinot Grigio that was renamed "Pinot Grioja"!

Over at Panel Biden, Tempranillos from 2005 and 2006 were the stars of the day although the Obama camp did not so warmly receive the '07s and '08s it tasted.

Everyone wanted the Australian Sangioveses to impress since these awards were first established as the Sangiovese Awards back in 1999. Unfortunately the wines did not live up to expectations.

Rebecca Willson, winemaker for Bremerton Wines in Langhorne Creek, said: "The Sangiovese was disappointing and over-tannic with a lack of fruit." It was the same story last year but vines are still young, it is still early days for site selection and decent clones of the Chianti grape are only just starting to bear fruit.

After nine hours tasting, there are a few gold medals and a lot of judges with black teeth. Mildura Brewery's pale ale is on the agenda. Can we do it all again tomorrow?. In the words of President Obama (and Bob the Builder) "Yes, we can"!

Judges at the show:

Sam Connew, winemaker, Wirra Wirra, McLaren Vale
Matt Gant, winemaker, First Drop Wines, Barossa
Glenn James, group red winemaker, Foster's
David Le Mire, consultant for wineries including Allegrini and Kooyong
Rebecca Willson, winemaker for Bremerton Wines in Langhorne Creek
James Erskine, Gourmet Traveller's sommelier of the year, Auge restaurant, Adelaide

Rebecca Gibb is features editor of Harpers magazine.