Chardonnay has been coming under a bit of flack recently what with the Bridget Jones connotations and the well-known Anything But Chardonnay (ABC) movement, says Anthony Rose. "It would be doing Chardonnay a disservice," to overlook it though given that it's "responsible for the greatest diversity of styles and range of qualities of any white wine variety". France is a good starting point with many "moreish examples", Rose says, but venture further abroad if you're feeling adventurous. He mentions the 2006 Chardonnay Pierro (28.50, Jeroboams) from Margaret River and the 2007 Chardonnay Lone Ranger Heretaunga (9.99, M&S) from New Zealand.