The Independent

France is playing the New World at its own game, reports ANTHONY ROSE, and it's not doing such a bad job either. Animal labels are currently all the rage, and France is in the thick of it: At Morrisons' spring tasting, I came across four French bottles with, respectively, a cat, a hedgehog, a sandpiper and a butterfly on the label.'

Rose isn't convinced of the need for all this wildlife, but he's happy to see it come with the growing use of grape varieties on the label to help us through the maze of wine styles.' Rose's favourites among the new-style Frenchies include 2004 Blason de Bourgogne Chardonnay (5.99; Morrisons).