For good or bad, 'Italian red wines have gradually become riper, softer, fruitier and more New World in style', says JOANNA SIMON. For an example from Chianti, try 2003 Badia a Coltibuono (9.99; Tesco). Simon's wine of the moment, however, is 2003 Tortoise Hill Red, South Africa: 'an unusual but delicious blend' of Zinfandel, Shiraz, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Moving on to spirits, her top choice is Reyka Vodka (15.99-19.99; Harvey Nichols, Peckham's).