JANE MacQUITTY has also been giving some time to Rioja in Retail, and she bemoans 'the Spanish obsession with excessive ageing in ropey old oak barrels'. However, there are a good many youngsters making up for old wood, and MacQuitty reports, 'Most merchants credit crianzas for the record 23 million litres of Rioja we drank last year.' She recommends trying 2002 Vega del Rioja Crianza from Bodegas Navajas (5.99; Morrisons).