Syrah, or Shiraz, 'one of the mightiest red grapes on the face of the earth', gets the MATTHEW JUKES treatment this week. Among his picks is 2003 Ctes-du-Rhne Villages, Domaine de la Jrome, Sylvette Brchet (8.95; Jeroboams & Laytons) - 'the most impressive red Rhne I have tasted this year' - while his wine of the week, 2003 Chteau Cazal Viel, Cuve des Fes, St-Chinian (6.99; Waitrose), is 'a rampantly impressive Syrah/