The multifaceted joys of Riesling are examined by VICTORIA MOORE, who says she was a little perturbed when a friend tried one and asked her: 'Is it meant to smell slightly like a stairwell or public toilet?' Moore admits that Riesling is a 'startling grape to encounter for the first time'. Her recommendations include 2003 Margarethenhof Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett (5.99; Majestic); and 2000 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Hochgewachs Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium (5.49; Majestic).