The Times

JANE MACQUITTY despises the 'ugly pink charge' of Mateus Ros and ros d'Anjou, and considers it 'apt' that the former was Saddam Hussein's favourite wine. Instead of these offerings, she recommends heading to the south of France: 'One of the advantages of cracking open a dry, tasty and pretty jewel-pink ros is that this is one of the few wine styles that is guaranteed to put you in a summery mood, even if it's pouring with rain outside. The good news is the arrival of the fresher, crisper 2004 European ross, with heaps more fruit and finesse than the sunburnt and sometimes flabby 2003 pinks.' She opts for 2004 Chteau Guiot Ros (5.29; Majestic) and 2004 Domaine de Pellehaut Vin de Pays des Ctes de Gascogne (4.49-4.99; Booths, Waitrose).