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GAJA IS THE GUIDES' CHOICE

Italy's 2004 wine guides, which are due out this month, have announced their list of award-winning wines and estates. Although many differ on the choice of wine, they all agree that Angelo Gaja is the top Italian producer, and Piedmont and Tuscany the top regions. They differ because they are in competition with each other and therefore tend to differentiate in their choices,' explained Francesca Planeta in Sicily. Wine guides are fundamental,' said Giovanni Folonari in Tuscany. They represent the most efficient form of communication for the consumer in navigating the increasing myriad of wines. Rightly or wrongly, they can make or break a wine or estate.' One of the fundamental issues they should take into consideration is the market trend,' said Alessandro Ceretto in Piedmont. One of the most important issues to bear in mind is the quality/price ratio.' Every region and producer talks of relaunching wines made from local varieties, but looking at the results, top-scoring wines seem to have little in common with their territory of origin,' said Piero Mastroberardino in Campania.

DuemilaVini, Bibenda, AIS 372 five bunches of grapes (top awards); 88 Piedmont; 84 Tuscany; 39 Friuli; 20 Veneto; 18 Alto Adige; 18 Marche, with Sicily and Campania close behind.

Vini D'Italia Gambero Rosso 254 Tre bicchieri awards, of which Tuscany won 62 and Piedmont 60.

I Vini di Veronelli, Veronelli Editore 302 super three-star awards'; 104 Tuscany and 79 Piedmont, with Friuli, Veneto, Lombardy and Alto Adige close behind.

I Vini D'Italia, L'Espresso Top estates awards: Piedmont: Clerico, Conterno Fantino, Spinetta/Rivetti, Gaja. Veneto: Dal Forno. Tuscany: Fonterutoli, Ornellaia.

Guida dei Vini Italiani, LM Luca Maroni Top 10 estates: Tuscany: Antinori, Castello Banfi, Cantine Leonardo da Vinci. Abruzzo: Farnese, Citra. Campania: Feudi di San Gregorio. Piedmont: Fratelli Martini. Sicily: Duca di Salaparuta, Firriato. Trentino: Cantina La Vis.

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