CHAMPAGNE VINTAGE?

Published: 23 July, 2008

By Neil Beckett

Dominique Demarville, Champagne Mumm's newly promoted Vines and Wines Director, has answered the big question' in the region by saying he is 99%' certain that his house will not produce a 2003 vintage wine and will instead prioritise the NV Cordon Rouge, the style of which he has been refining. Speaking at a London tasting of 2002 vins clairs, consecutive releases of Cordon Rouge, reserve and vintage wines, he said that, with only 60% of a normal crop, he might use the cuve from the second harvest, but that the general quality was even lower than in 2001, and the taille would be very bitter'. In an attempt to boost the vintage category, Mot & Chandon has launched a co-ordinated campaign to raise its profile in the UK. It is releasing 3,000 bottles of recently disgorged and repackaged older vintages (1988, 1982, 1973 and 1961) through Vintage Bars' in hotels including Claridge's and Momo and selected retailers such as Harrods and Selfridges. M&C has also commissioned from Spiegelau a specially designed retro-chic coupe, is publishing a new magazine, Vintage, and starting a Vintage Club. Speaking after the launch tasting in London, conducted by chef de cave Georges Blanck, UK PR manager Vincent Gillet said that consumers like the idea of vintage' but do not fully understand it, so it was necessary to inject dynamism, energy and new ideas'. Targeting new consumers and the Christmas and special gift market - those who now buy cufflinks or a briefcase instead' - he said that they had deliberately kept the price down' to 75 a bottle for the younger vintages and 150 for the 1961, available only in magnum. Champagne Lanson has also been publicising its range of vintage wines, wine consultant David Molyneux-Berry MW presenting 10 at a recent tasting in London: 1976, 1979, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1988 and 1989 Lanson, 1989 Lanson Ivory Label, and 1990 and 1993 Lanson Gold Label. All of the wines were served from magnum.

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