Chablis is the subject for VICTORIA MOORE this week, in her new-style Guardian column. It might be one of the wine world's most well-known names but that doesn't mean it's consistent, warns Moore. There are so many different Chablis tastes, it's hard to know which you might be getting,' she says. To give readers a head start, she recommends four examples of different styles, including the approachable' 2004 M&S Chablis (8.99; Marks & Spencer).
Sherry's time has come,' declares JANE MacQUITTY, but it's no thanks to the latest release from Harvey's: On sale for a steep 7 or so in Tesco and Sainsbury's next month, it [Harvey's Orange Aperitif] smells of Terry's Chocolate Orange and tastes of orange cough sweets.' The overall category, however, is enjoying a resurgence, she reports: The average price that British drinkers are prepared to pay for a bottle of Sherry is up from a rock-bottom 4.64 in 2002 to 5.55 in 2006.' For a winter aperitif, she recommends Old Amontillado Sanlucar, Hidalgo (8.60; Tanners).
Read more...With the current spell of tropical weather, VICTORIA MOORE concedes that 'talking about Port might appear to be an exercise in contrariness'. But not if it's chilled, she argues, and this is what they do with aged Tawny Port in the Douro. 'It's a delicious thing to pull out for the cheese course', she remarks and her top suggestions include M&S 20-Year-Old Tawny Port (21.99).
Read more...Viognier is not for everyone, says SUSY ATKINS, and cheap examples should be avoided as a matter of course. She advises: Trade up to well over 5 for a true taste of this exotic grape.' One example is 2003/4 Ctes du Rhne Blanc, Guigal, France (7.99; Waitrose).
According to JOANNA SIMON, chancellor Gordon Brown is considering increasing the duty on higher-alcohol wines exceeding 14% abv. In the meantime, she suggests trying a bottle of 15% 2004 Show Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale (6.49; The Real Wine Co).
In terms of wine matching, deli food requires good all-rounders with similarly straightforward qualities,' says JAMIE GOODE, and he has a few suggestions up his sleeve. One possibility is 2004 Santa Rita Floresta Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda, Chile (9.49; Waitrose).
Read more...JANCIS ROBINSON MW celebrates the launch of the third edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine with a special tasting evening'. She picks out nine wines for a mention in her column, which she thinks are so good they could become classics of the future, yet did not exist in 1999 when the last edition of the Companion came out'. Among the chosen ones is the very vivacious' 2003 Tokara Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa (23; Hic Wines of Castleford).
Read more...JANE MacQUITTY goes to work on celebrity winemakers and the result isn't pretty. Anyone willing to shell out for the 2005 Vida Nova from Cliff Richard needs their head examined' and Francis Ford Coppola's Californian offering doesn't fare much better. Actors Gerard Dpardieu and Sam Neill are the only two famous vignerons to escape a roasting. According to MacQuitty, Neill's Central Otago Pinot Noirs are sublime' and Dpardieu's collection is characterful but erratic'.
A 66-page Real Food Guide gives MacQuitty an extra two pages this week and she advises readers on how to choose wine and where to find it.
Gazpachos are a great way to start a summer dinner party', says JAMIE GOODE and the best wine matches will have a bit of richness and weight'. Try 2005 Martn Codax Albario, Ras Baixas (8.50; Majestic, Roberson, SH Jones, Wright Wine).
Read more...Glassware is the topic up for discussion by ANTHONY ROSE this week, because some of the ghastly vessels that pass as wine glasses often fail to do justice to the liquid in the bottle'. For something better than everyday drinking, Rose points readers towards the usual suspects: Schott-Ziesel and Riedel. He also comes up with a couple of alternatives, including Mikasa's Open Up glass (from 20 for four glasses; mikasa-uk.com), made from a new material called Kwarx manufactured by Arc International, which is so durable that he manages to break it only by hurling it at the floor from a great height'. His wine suggestion for under a fiver is 2005 Tesco Finest Gavi (4.49 until 10 October).
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Only Beaujolais Nouveau has a truly celebrated arrival in the UK each year, but the summer just gone has seen VICTORIA MOORE becoming mildly obsessed with the arrival of the new vintage southern hemisphere Sauvignon Blancs'. She reveals an admiration for South African expressions of this variety but recommends an example from New Zealand: 2006 Ned Waihopai Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough (9.99; Waitrose).
MATTHEW JUKES sets himself the task of matching wines of serious calibre' with the accompanying recipes taken from Jamie Oliver's latest cookbook. Crispy duck with spiced plum chutney is paired with 2004 Yering Station Shiraz/Viognier, Yarra Valley, Victoria (9.99; Sainsbury's).
RICHARD EHRLICH talks about wine competitions such as the International Wine Challenge (IWC) and the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), and while he approves of the judging methods of both, the DWWA wins hands-down in the website department. His top wines of the week are all from Sainsbury's and include 2004 Ctes du Rhne Prfrence (4.99).
Bordeaux has finally released its prices for the 2005 vintage and ANTHONY ROSE reports: Just when everyone thought that the big-name chteaux couldn't get more expensive, many of them have surpassed themselves in an orgy of exorbitant pricing.' The good news is that some of the lesser chteaux have kept things affordable, and when it comes to getting hold of them, Rose says: Among the specialists, Farr Vintners has one of the best-priced selections.' His recommendation for wine under a fiver is 2005 Palandri Pinnacle Semillon Sauvignon (4.99; Waitrose).
Read more...Sauvignon Blanc may not have the flexibility of Chardonnay, admits JOANNA SIMON, but it's an ideal aperitif or accompaniment to the last of the summer salads'. She recommends 2005 Santa Rita Floresta Sauvignon Blanc, Chile (9.99; Waitrose).
The varied, often spicy flavours of Caribbean dishes mean they're compatible with a lot
of tipples,' says JAMIE GOODE.
He picks out a few robust,
full-flavoured' options such as 2004 Chteau de Pennautier Cabards, France (5.49; Majestic, Berry Bros & Rudd).
TIM ATKIN MW worries that he might be out of a job soon thanks to Wine-bot, a robo-sommelier', which has been developed in Japan. In the meantime, his wines of the week are all gold medal winners at the 2006 International Wine Challenge, including 2005 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc, Malborough (8.99; Oddbins).
The Observer Food Monthly also makes some space for wine but this time it's courtesy of GUY WOODWARD, editor of Decanter magazine. Woodward highlights another big wine competition - the Decanter World Wine Awards - and picks out 50 winners. The under 10 selection includes 2005 Kangarilla Road Viognier, McLaren Vale, South Australia (9.99; Majestic), which was awarded a gold medal.
German wines aren't given the boost they normally receive from JANCIS ROBINSON MW this week. Following a recent tasting, she observes: Although German vintners have become more skilled at making dry wines with every vintage,
I cannot recommend dry 2005s as unreservedly as the traditional fruitier styles made in the more northerly wine regions, especially Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, in this vintage.' Pfalz comes out the worst, with no wine receiving a top mark, and the wines from Franken are singled out for the highest praise - really convincingly racy, super-clean fruit, a nice lick of earthiness and great balance'. Her top producers overall include Juliusspital Wrzburg in Franken and Tesch in Nahe.
JONATHAN RAY heads to the Cape and falls in love. The country is beautiful, the welcome effusive and the wines utterly bewitching.' Bruce Jack's Flagstone winery is one of the stop-off points and Ray comments: Innovative, daring and provocative, Jack has long been the enfant terrible of the South African wine industry'. Charles Back of Fairview is next on the list and Ray gets a chance to taste his three labels (Charles Back, Fairview and Spice Route) including the Goats do Roam series, which has been extended to include the Bordeaux-style red: Bored Doe. And in Ray's view, there's not a poor one among them'.
It's Wine Week with The Daily Telegraph and celebrations begin with some food and wine matching advice from Ray. The subject of glassware is also up for discussion and, according to BRYONY GORDON, one of the rules is: the lighter the glass the better the quality'. Burgundy is in the spotlight and readers are given a breakdown of the region, including comments on the grapes and notable vintages.
September is well and truly under way, and ANTHONY ROSE has turned his thoughts to game or, more importantly, the wines that go with it. Bringing the best out of grouse or partridge can be achieved with an evolved red Burgundy', he advises, such as 2000 Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs, 1er cru, Domaine Carr Courbin (27.50; Berry Bros & Rudd). Italian reds can also go down a treat and Rose's favourites include 2004 Piancornello Rosso di Montalcino (13.50-14.95; Stone, Vine and Sun; Lay and Wheeler).
