Chablis is the subject for VICTORIA MOORE this week, in her new-style Guardian column. It might be one of the wine world's most well-known names but that doesn't mean it's consistent, warns Moore. There are so many different Chablis tastes, it's hard to know which you might be getting,' she says. To give readers a head start, she recommends four examples of different styles, including the approachable' 2004 M&S Chablis (8.99; Marks & Spencer).