Jonathan Ray has been visiting a French vigneron who set up shop in Mendoza, Argentina. The move makes sense, says the Telegraph critic, because Mendoza is fast becoming the "spiritual home" of the Malbec grape variety. His choices this week include the 2006 Viognier LuLu-V Hewitson (8.95, Berry Bros & Rudd) which is "silkily scrumptious, full of the expected peach, apricot and guava aromas" that come with a true Viognier.