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The Guardian

Published:  23 July, 2008

News of a restaurant-goer who ordered a bottle of 1961 Ptrus at London eatery Zafferano recently, for a mere 18,000, then promptly sent it back because he thought it was a fake, gained numerous column inches in the national press. But what Victoria Moore wants to know is who ended up paying for it?
"With ordinary plonk, the restaurant returns bottles to the supplier, who will stump up for a replacement or pass on the cost to the producer, depending on their negotiated agreement. Fine wine is in another situation altogether, and the situation is never clearcut."
Paul Singer, MD of London Fine Dining Group, which owns Zafferano, tells her: "You can insure against wine being damaged in an accident - if a rack collapses, say. But wine with a fault? Not as far as we're aware. That's why some restaurants, unlike ours, warn the customer that they order expensive wine at their own risk."