ANTHONY ROSE is not so enamoured of Ruinart's Valentine's offering: More like a post-Christmas opportunity to sell, if you ask me.' Instead of pink bubbly he opts for a selection of wines to match The Independent's Valentine recipes. He says Grard Thomas' 2005 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Murgers des Dents de Chien (14.99; Waitrose) and 2005 Taste the Difference Grner Veltliner (6.99; Sainsbury's) are the perfect choice for Lobster Thermidor.