JANE MacQUITTY is annoyed, some might say intemperately so, that the government's guidelines for safe drinking allow just 14 units per week for a woman and 21 for a man. MacQuitty prefers the advice proffered by her colleague on The Times, Dr Thomas Stuttaford in his leaflet The Wise Drinker's Guide, available through Waitrose, which sets the upper limit at 21 units for women and 28 for men. And she reckons it's 'high time' her health insurers listened to research showing that 'moderate drinkers live longer'. As for what to spend those precious extra units on, MacQuitty's wines of the week include a pair of 2003 vins de pays d'Oc: Virginie Syrah and Virginie Roussanne (both 4.99; Oddbins).