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The Observer

Published:  23 July, 2008

Renowned stripper (and part-time wine writer) TIM ATKIN MW profiles Carmenre ('not a great grape, whatever the Chileans claim'). He says that in Bordeaux, the grape is virtually non-existent, despite it being 'partly responsible for some of the region's greatest wines', and it is still unknown how the Chileans were sold so much of it by the French. After tasting more than 100 Chilean Carmenres, Atkin concludes that 'ultra-concentrated, heavily oaked Carmenre is not necessarily a good thing. The variety is best consumed when it's young, dark, and full of primary flavours.' His recommendations include 2003 Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo (4.99; Tesco, Majestic); 2003 VOE Adobe (5.75; Vintage Roots); 2003 Errzuriz (4.49; Asda); and 2003 Tabal Reserva (8.99; Buckingham Vintners).