Soave: the very best of the Verona wine region

Yet the historic heart of the appellation is undoubtedly Soave Classico, centred on the eastern end of the Lessini hills north of the village of Monteforte d'Alpone;  Soave Superiore DOCG  is reserved for wines made from the finest climats, planted on poor soils and subject to restrictions regarding the maximum permitted yield. The soils of this hilly area are made up of decomposed volcanic rock – subsoils contain large amounts of mineral-rich basalt, a hard, black volcanic stone.

According to the consorzio, the abdunance of basalt derives from “the intense volcanic activity which, at the beginning of the Tertiary period, characterised large parts of this zone. This activity continued for three geological cycles (all in an undersea environment), which gave rise to igneous byproducts of various colours - from grey to yellow to reddish– depending on the environment in which they were formed and their degree of oxidation.” The south-facing aspect, low soil fertility and exceptional drainage of the top sites in Soave gives producers a decisive advantage. Indeed, the best vineyards are a jealously guarded secret. In addition, the density of planting  is one of the highest in the world according to the consorzio. The average age of the vineyards, meanwhile, is markedly higher compared to other zones: around 50% of the vines currently in production are over 30 years old, and the rate of replanting is particularly low.

“Soave is a high-quality wine, born from Garganega, a native variety that has always been cultivated on these hills of volcanic origin,”
Igor Gladich, director, Consorzio del Soave.

Further west in the communes of Mezzane, Lavagno, Illasi, Colognola Ai Colli, Soave and Cazzano di Tramigna, one encounters well-drained limestone soils that help to restrain Garganega's inherent vigour. Nevertheless, the signature white grape variety of the region  thrives in both the volcanic and calcareous terroirs of the zone. In a typical vintage, growers will encounter a benign pattern  of relatively warm temperatures, supported by adequate - but not excessive – rainfall. The higher altitude sites in the wider region benefit from a significant day/night temperature variation, which helps to maintain acidity in the wines. “Soave is a high-quality wine, born from Garganega, a native variety that has always been cultivated on these hills of volcanic origin,” explains Igor Gladich, director, Consorzio del Soave.

He adds; “The basaltic soil from which it comes gives it an undisputed minerality that allows it to last and evolve over time. Definitely a great white wine that today does not play second fiddle to the famous French white wines, with an enviable relationship between quality and value.”  Under the appellation rules, Garganega must constitute at least 70 per cent of the final blend.  Winegrowers then have the option of topping up the wine with a maximum of 30% Chardonnay and Trebbiano di Soave.

At its best, Soave is an incomparable piece of white wine magic. Its perfume is often characterised by a beguiling combination of almonds and citrus, supported by ripe acidity and a soft, velvety texture. Occasionally, a touch of oak can add structure and depth to these already magnificent wines, although too much new wood can spoil the style.

Over the past decade, meanwhile, winemakers have reassessed their attitudes towards the difficult-to-cultivate but superior quality hillside vineyards and pergola-trained vines. They are undoubtedly more cumbersome and expensive to maintain, when compared with vineyards planted on flat land. However, the rewards are substantial. There are centenarian vines trained on pergolas that produce unbelievably concentrated wine; single-vineyard expressions are all the rage in the hills of Verona.

But it is the topic of sustainability that really arouses passions in this progressive region.  As elsewhere, growers are embracing a more eco-friendly paradigm, replacing synthetic inputs with environmentally-sound methods that do not contaminate the soil. “The Colline Vitate del Soave is the first Italian wine district to obtain the GIAHS (Globally Importance Heritage System) recognition, established by FAO in 2002 and whose official ceremony was recently held in Rome, in the headquarters of the prestigious organisation,” says Igor Gladich.

“The Colline Vitate del Soave is the first Italian wine district to obtain the GIAHS (Globally Importance Heritage System) recognition.."
Igor Gladich, director, Consorzio del Soave

“This path introduces a radical change of vision that puts people at the centre of the agricultural context, no longer as a subject who disturbs the existing ecosystem with a form of intensive agriculture but, on the contrary, as main architect in maintaining biodiversity and landscape conservation. This recognition makes us full of pride and represents a milestone in our journey towards the protection of the environment and the landscape, alongside the constant pursuit of quality.”