VICTORIA MOORE gets lost in Kent and, to her shock, finds herself drinking Sherry: 'Who drinks that these days?' But she surprises herself and comments: 'It's the perfect, delicate, not-quite-drinking, no-guilt way to begin a weekend lunch.' Tesco is her top choice for good value, with Tesco Finest Fino and Tesco Finest Manzanilla both selling for 5.06 in 75cl bottles.
Read more...The public smoking ban (already in Scotland and due to reach England, Wales and Northern Ireland in 2007) can't come soon enough for RICHARD EHRLICH. 'This column was one of the first of its type to talk seriously about the idea of banning smoking in bars', he reminds readers. This said, he does 'have a certain sympathy for people in the bar industry who fear their livelihoods will be threatened'. Jonathan Downey, owner of London bars such as The Player and Milk & Honey, tells Ehrlich he thinks some places will definitely be in trouble: 'We won't suffer because of our clientele. But good locals or basic bars - some of these places will go to the wall.'
Read more...TIM ATKIN MW has chosen to open up his heart to the nation and admit to a shameful secret. 'There is no denying the truth any longer: I am addicted to Sherry.' He's well aware of its 'bus pass image' and doesn't deny that old people are fans: 'The fastest way to get my grandmother to nod off was to slip her a glass of cream Sherry.' But this hasn't managed to deter him: 'There's always a bottle of Fino in the fridge. When I'm at home, I drink a glass of Sherry most evenings.' For those who would like an introduction, Atkin recommends Solera Jerezana Fino Puerto (5.35; Waitrose) and Lustau Very Rare Old Oloroso, Emperatriz Eugenia (15.89; D Byrne, Green and Blue, Noel Young).
Read more...VICTORIA MOORE has stolen the idea of serving wine in shot glasses from a restaurant in the coastal Chilean town of Valparaiso. 'It's an easy way of turning a slightly lazy-looking starter into something impressive.' This tends to work best with sharp, white wines, she continues, and one of her favourites is a 'Sauvignon Blanc shot set on a plate with a small mound of crab meat and a few circles of bread or toast.'
Read more...'Screwcaps have turned respectable,' declares JANE MACQUITTY. She concedes that 'a fair few winemakers continue to argue that the finest and rarest vintages, destined for many years ageing, should not be bottled under this closure', but this doesn't stop her finding some great examples to 'twist open'. These include the 'zingy and gooseberry-laden' 2005 Blind River Sauvignon Blanc, Malborough (9.99; Oddbins) and the 'fruit-driven' 2002 Morgon Domaine des Souchons from Condemine-Pillet (8.99; Oddbins).
Read more...ANTHONY ROSE takes on two of the wine world's heavyweights this week, saying: 'Hugh Johnson and Robert Parker may be the twin colossi of wine writing, but as a weighty biography of one [The Emperor of Wine, by Elin McCoy] and the other's characteristically fine new book [Wine: A Life Uncorked, by Hugh Johnson] make clear, they're poles apart.' Rose is a fan of Johnson's prose, which he describes as 'a window on mouthwatering feasts and intriguing personalities'. Parker is more about numbers, however, and Rose suggests, 'Could it be that the 100-point system for rating wines was in fact Parker's way of compensating for his own lack of vocabulary in the face of Johnsonian eloquence?' For good wine under a tenner, Rose suggests 2004 La Toledana Gavi, Villa Lanata (7.99; Majestic).
Read more...RICHARD EHRLICH has two things to share with his readers this week. First, the news that Waitrose is in the midst of a large-scale French wine promotion, which involves taking over the central portions of its selling space' and filling them with French wine. According to Ehrlich, the top bargain to be found is the own-label Blanc de Noirs (down to 13.99 from 15.99). The second part of this column is a giveaway: three pairs of tickets to the Chelsea flower show courtesy of Laurent-Perrier. A few other recommendations to make the most of at Waitrose include 2004 Pouilly Fum, Jean Vincent (7.99 from 10.69), which has fine mineral flavours' and 2004 La Bgude Chardonnay (6.99 from 8.99) - an impressive, generously oaked but apple-fresh Chardonnay from the Limoux.'
JONATHAN RAY and his wife don't live in the best area of Brighton. 'The phone box outside my window is appreciated by our neighbourhood smack-heads.' There's also no friendly Waitrose nearby, making Co-op and Somerfield the next best option. It turns out that this isn't such a bad thing, however, and Ray pays a visit to head wine buyers, Paul Bastard
Read more...The average bottle price for Kiwi wine may be down to 5.68 from more than 6, but there's no need to panic, says ANTHONY ROSE. New Zealand is 'still way ahead of its closest rival with only Australia and France hurdling 4 a bottle, while the rest of the world languishes on a puny 3.85'. One of the reasons for this success, he continues, is 'because it plants only two hectares to every 15ha in Australia, it has had to make its voice heard by putting quality before big brands'. Malborough is still the region in the starring role with wines such as Jackson Estate Sauvignon (9.99; Tesco), although Rose discovers that other regions and varieties are beginning to make an impact. One example is 2004 Vidal Riesling (7.50-8.24; Kingsgate Wines, Wimbledon Wine Cellar, Noel Young Wines).
Read more...'Eastern Europe is still struggling to shed its grey, Communist-era image,' says JAMIE GOODE, but this shouldn't deter us from buying its wines. Try 2003 Firebird Legend Cabernet Sauvignon Vulcaneshti, Moldova (4.99; Waitrose).
Read more...MATTHEW JUKES recommends sparkling wine and Champagne for Christmas and the New Year. They include NV Jacob's Creek Sparkling Ros (7.99; Asda, Sainsbury's); NV Deutz Marlborough Cuve (11.99, Oddbins; 10.99, Waitrose);
Read more...The average bottle price for Kiwi wine may be down to 5.68 from more than 6, but there's no need to panic, says ANTHONY ROSE. New Zealand is still way ahead of its closest rival with only Australia and France hurdling 4 a bottle, while the rest of the world languishes on a puny 3.85'. One of the reasons for this success, he continues, is because it plants only two hectares to every 15ha in Australia, it has had to make its voice heard by putting quality before big brands'. Malborough is still the region in the starring role with wines such as Jackson Estate Sauvignon (9.99; Tesco), although Rose discovers that other regions and varieties are beginning to make an impact. One example is 2004 Vidal Riesling (7.50-8.24; Kingsgate Wines, Wimbledon Wine Cellar, Noel Young Wines).
RICHARD EHRLICH has generally assumed that 'the cosmopolitan sophisticates of London are more receptive
Read more...As yet another 'down-at-heel local' bites the dust in favour of a 'spatchcocked quail-serving gastropub', VICTORIA MOORE wonders what on earth happens to the 'old men seemingly welded to the old, sticky-topped bar'. It is in deference to these 'honest folk who know their place' - and in defiance of the 'arriviste middle-class riffraff' - that Moore finds herself recommending 2004 Cao (2.99, down from 4.49; Tesco). 'So outrageously cheap', she says, 'that it prices no one out of the market. And it comes from a cooperative, too. How much more egalitarian can you get?'
Read more...JOANNA SIMON talks cheese in honour of a new report from the Department of Enology & Viticulture at the University of California. The report says that wine and cheese don't go together; Simon asks: 'What took them so long?' One of her exceptions to this rule is 2003 Domaine des Schistes Cuve Tradition (9.45; Berry Bros & Rudd).
Read more...A wine drinker is more likely to get laid than a beer drinker, so says TIM ATKIN MW. It's all about compounds in wine that resemble human pheromones, so dab some behind your ears - particularly Pinot Noir if you are a man.
Read more...JONATHAN RAY goes green this week and pays homage to the environment-friendly, organic end of the market. 'Think of the synthetic fertilisers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides that might have been used in the vineyards,' he warns. 'Perhaps we should now be thinking organic?' Unfortunately, it isn't always that simple, he discovers. Due to reasons such as differing regulations across markets and a desire to be judged purely on quality, a lot of producers choose not to advertise their organic side. To give his readers a helping hand, Ray picks out some organic greats, such as 2004 Bonterra Chardonnay, California (8.99; Sainsbury's) and 2004 Domaine de Pontcher, Sauvignon de Touraine, France (5.99 as part of a case; Majestic).
Read more...'You'd think I'd questioned the manhood of half the blokes in South Australia,' says TIM ATKIN MW of the Aussies' rather hostile reaction to his suggestion that 'cheap Australian wine was in danger of turning into the Liebfraumilch of the 21st century'. But Atkin is undeterred, declaring: 'Any consumer who buys one of the big Aussie brands at its full retail price is a fool.' It's not all bad news, though: Atkin cushioned the blow with a visit to the recent Australia Day tasting and the concession that, while the big brands may have let things slip in the cheap stakes, the more expensive (10+) category 'illustrated the complexity, diversity and downright quality of what Australia has to offer'. Good examples include 2003 Suckfizzle Sauvignon/Semillon, Margaret River (15.99; Alliance Wines) and 2002 Penley Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra (25; Moreno Wines).
Read more...Anthony Rose muses over Madonna's new wine range, launched despite the material girl's usual advocacy for 'bottled Kaballah water': 'Not all so-called celebrity wines are simply monuments to their egos,' says Rose. 'Sir Cliff is serious about his Vida Nova as are England cricketing legends Ian Botham and Bob Willis with their BMW Chardonnay and Shiraz.'
Read more...It's been 150 years since the 1855 classification of Bordeaux, and JONATHAN RAY is only too happy to raise a glass in celebration. Dewey Markham, author of 1855: A History of the Bordeaux Classification, tells Ray: 'The list serves as a fascinating snapshot of Bordeaux in that year, and when it comes to setting Bordeaux apart from other wine regions, it is a unique tool.' While David Roberts MW adds: 'Despite such occasional quirks, which I equate with Wigan Athletic's current form in the football Premiership, I'd say that the list is still relevant and accurate.' But Ray doesn't need to be convinced, saying: 'The mere fact that it is 150 years old this year is good enough for me.' Readers are given a chance to order a 220 case of five cru class wines and one cru bourgeois, including 2001 Chteau Mouton-Rothschild.
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