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Wines in the press - August 12-16

The Guardian

Victoria Moore would rather have another glass of red than drink stickily sweet wines.

But every so often, she says, one comes along one for which she will make an exception, namely the Domaine Gardrat Pineau des Charentes Reserve (£18.50 75cl, yapp.co.uk;). She explains Pineau des Charentes is made in the departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime by blending Ugni Blanc and Colombard, then adding Cognac to the must before it ferments. "This one is stunning. It feels like a caress and when you take a sip is so good that you stop talking. It tastes gloriously mellow, of plump, alcohol-soaked raisins, of prunes, walnuts and the smell of freshly ground coffee, of preparing for Christmas but also of late summer sun."

The Times
Back in the early 1980s, the Australian producer Wolf Blass invented a sparkling red called René Pogel and told people to read the name backwards. The wine caused offence and was withdrawn soon afterwards, but Tim Atkin MW says he I rather likes the joke in all its "boorish crassness". He explains novelty wines, tend to fall into five categories: puns, self-deprecation, sexual innuendo, fantasy names and so-called "critter brands". Peter F May's book "Marilyn Merlot and the Naked Grape" contains descriptions of more than a hundred "odd wines", says Atkin. He adds such labels as Le Fiat Door may not leave you clutching your sides with laughter, but they're more fun than something called Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Kabinett. But too often with novelty wines, the joke, pun or colourful label is more important than the quality of the liquid in the bottle." Some wineries are famous for their amusing labels as well as their wines, Atkin cites three of the best as: Bonny Doon in California, d'Arenberg in Australia and Fairview in South Africa. Between them, they have given us Le Cigare Volant, Old Telegram, Cardinal Zin, Goats do Roam, Goat Roti, The Hermit Crab and the Dead Arm.

The Telegraph
Last night at dinner, Jonathan Ray says there was a squabble over whether France or Italy made the better wines. Which was the tastiest and more reliable: Cotes du Rhône or Chianti? Meursault or Montepulciano? Haut-Brion or Ornellaia? The argument was evenly divided. It was agreed that both countries had recently raised their game, thanks, in part, to New World competition, and a couple of recent fine vintages. He adds at the £10 level, both France and Italy are currently hard to beat, as centuries of winemaking expertise result in accessible wines of real terroir-driven character. In the end they couldn't agree on which nation was to wear the wine laurels. Being diplomatic Ray gives 10 of his current French and Italian favourites telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine

The Independent
Just about everywhere we buy our wine, we are presented with the nubile attractions of youth in wine, says Anthony Rose. There are obvious commercial reasons -  wine is fast moving consumer goods and statistics tell us that 92% of all wine purchased is consumed within 48 hours. One of the lessons we've learnt from the New World is to consume wine as a drink and not to hoard it. The number of independent wine merchants that sit on fine wine is diminishing and supermarkets don't think it's their job to perform the dust-gathering role. Which is why Rose says he welcomes the decision by Tesco to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its Finest range with a Limited Edition series of wines from the great millennium vintage. "This may well be a cunning shop window gesture to promote its Finest range but in most cases, these are genuine fine wines laid down to mature over the past decade."

The Mail
It signifies that the good times are rolling, when you're popping a bottle of fizz, says Olly Smith. But regular blasts of bubbly can take quite a toll on your wallet - especially if you develop a taste for top-end stuff. So how do you maximise value but still enjoy the Champagne lifestyle? You could always drink less but, you're better off having your cake and eating it... by being in the know.If it's Champagne you must have, then Bollinger offers some good value with Grande Année 2000, which you can pick up for £60 in Majestic. But if you're aiming for something under a tenner, you'll have to accept that Champagne may have to come off your shopping list.
Smith likes to find proper fizz for under a tenner that makes the heart leap. He says the Champagne house Mumm produces Cuvée Napa in California, and you can find several good examples coming out of South Africa too.