"France, for all its failings, continues to set the standards for global fine wine production," Jane MacQuitty explains. This was her response to a "Gallic-wine-hating reader" who complained that MacQuitty's pages were full of endless plugs for French wine. Particular current favourites include the "celery-scented style" 2007 Vin de Pays Cuvée Pêcheur (£3.69, Waitrose) and the 2005 Moulin à Vent, La Roche-Vineuse (£13.95, Berry Bros & Rudd).