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The Sunday Times

Published:  23 July, 2008

There is a distinction to be made between "dead-as-a-dodo, brown, oxidised" Burgundies most drinkers can spot a mile off and paler white Burgundies, which are past their best, says Jane Macquitty. The latter can slip through the net easier, she feels, meaning you may not realise an expensive white Burgundy is out of condition until it's too late. So what steps should we take, muses MacQuitty. The full ten years wine merchants recommend "no longer seems a safe bet," adding "my advice is to shrink the drinking window dramatically". Among her recommendations this week are the 2006 Beerenauslese Riesling from Dr Loosen (Waitrose, 9.99) and the "verdant" 2007 Chardonnay Lindemans Winemakers Release (Somerfield, 3.99).