Chardonnay has become a victim of its own success but a couple of recent experiences have proved that it doesn't have to be as universally yawn-inducing as its detractors claim', says ANTHONY ROSE. He recommends Domaine Jomain's 2004 Puligny Montrachet (17.99; Majestic) and Errazuriz's 2005 Wild Ferment Chardonnay (9.99; Stone, Vine & Sun).