Jancis Robinson discusses the banning of the name Tocai Friulano from wine labels exported from the Italian region of Friuli in the north-east. The reason? Because of its similarity to Tocai Friulano (Tokay) - a "legendary golden dessert wine of north-east Hungary". So name changes aside, what does the Italian grape variety have to offer, she asks. The 2006 Canus Friulano Colli Orientali Del Friuli has a "hint of smokiness" while the 2006 Schiopetto Tocai Friulano Collio is "creamy and flattering in texture" with "wonderfully explosive fruit".