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The Guardian

Published:  23 July, 2008

Instead of arranging wine by price, geography or the banal "dry and fruity" route, Christine Parkinson at London restaurant Hakkasan has come up with headings such as "Curious Vines: distinctive wines, unusual, often ancient, grape varieties. Not Chardonnay".' And it's working, says VICTORIA MOORE. Sales of a Piedmont white made from Arneis have risen eightfold'. This week's top bottle tip from Moore is the elegant' 2004 Condrieu Les Vins de Vienne, France (19.99, Tesco Fine Wine).