It might be what's inside the bottle that really counts but SUSY ATKINS thinks eye-catching labels are very important too. One modern example that takes her fancy is the scribbly pencil drawing of the spiny rodent' on 2005 Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa (5.99 to 6.49;
Oddbins, Sainsbury's, Waitrose, selected independents).