All too often, when it comes to judging the seriousness of a wine (as opposed to the drinker), a kind of apartheid sets in, with red considered the elite,' reports VICTORIA MOORE. This is doing a great disservice to the top whites of the world, in her opinion, and she singles out a few which are worth upgrading to even on a small budget'. One example is 2005 Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling (7.99; Tesco).