As an experiment, JONATHAN RAY takes two 3.99 red wines, decants one, leaves the other in the bottle and invites six friends to compare them. 'There is an unseemly jostle for the decanter, which is drained in no time,' he says, 'while the bottle is virtually ignored. All six declare the decanted wine far superior to its counterpart.' Rob Chase of Adnams tells Ray that decanting 'adds 50% to a wine's value in minutes. Even Chardonnay, of any age, from anywhere, improves dramatically after decanting.'