Specialist German importer The Wine Barn is marking its quarter century at its annual tasting on 3 February with a full house showing of all 15 winemakers.
This small but quality-driven importer of VDP level estates was set up in 2000 by Iris Ellmann (pictured), who was on a mission to “change British perception of German wine, which at the time was still cheap and sweet”.
Sommeliers and quality-focused on-trade were and remain the focus for spreading this message, which, coupled with other like-minded German specialists, has since driven a groundswell of interest in German wines.
“Being a native German, I wanted to show the trade that the current view was very limited and that the wines we drank at home were mainly dry and a fabulous partner with all kinds of food,” Ellmann told Harpers.
“When I first started, most sommeliers had extremely little knowledge, apart from noble sweet Mosel wines. I taught some of the biggest names in the sommelier world… this was hugely satisfying. When we started to introduce trade to the delights of German Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder), the sommeliers very quickly saw the potential in these wines too and these are now highly sought after,” she added.
Admitting that pushing Germany had at times been a tough proposition, Ellmann and her team nonetheless stuck fast, helping rekindle interest in the outstanding wines available from across Germany’s myriad regions, with non-specialist merchants increasingly taking the plunge too over time.
“Other merchants have followed suit as the wines are being more acceptable and easier to sell and I would like to think that we were ground-breaking in the change of attitude towards German wine,” said Ellmann.
There is, however, still much work to be done, with Ellmann urging that more sommeliers and independent merchants – the quality-minded sectors of the trade – be invited over to Germany to experience first-hand the vibrant food and wine culture that exists in its wine regions.
“More trips to Germany would be extremely helpful to show the beauty of our wine regions, taste the delicious local food, paired with the appropriate wines of that region, not to forget our amazing hospitality,” Ellmann added.
For a taste of The Wine Barn’s dry Rieslings, Silvaners, Spätburgunder and more besides, its 25th Annual Portfolio Tasting takes place at London’s Army & Navy Club on 3 February.