Headline hero: Exploring Navarra

By Andrew Catchpole

Published: 03 November, 2021

In assocation with Wines of Navarra

This proud region is also one of the most innovative in Spain, taking native and international varieties in its winemaking stride. Andrew Catchpole offers a taster of its highlights.

In many ways Navarra, tucked away in north eastern Spain beyond the reach of most coast-bound tourists, is an under-discovered gem. Not only is it a beautiful region, boasting some of the best agricultural produce in the country, but it’s a landscape that also plays hosts to one of the most innovative viticultural DOs in the country. The best-known wines range from saignée method rosados to superb, fresh Garnachas, by way of (often blended) Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, plus some very good Chardonnay, and much else besides. This is a diverse winemaking region, straddling indigenous and international varieties with equal aplomb, across its five quite climatically distinct sub-regions.

Nudging up into the foothills of the Pyrenees, Navarra has a cooler climate than much of Spain, imparting a typical moreish freshness into both whites and reds, and delivering some excellent food-friendly styles. And that mix of indigenous and international varieties – going back quite some time in its vinous history – is clearly a strength when it comes to being able to offer wines to suit most palates on most occasions. And, as Spanish wines continue to ride on a wave of enthusiasm for more adventurous drinking, Navarra is well placed to tap into that trend.

Primed with a new marketing campaign in the UK, running from September 2021 until April 2022, Navarra is about to start making a lot more noise about its wealth of wines, of which currently only around a third reach the export markets. As part of that activity, Spain expert Sarah Jane Evans MW recently hosted a Navarra tasting, covering many styles of wine.

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Varietal mix

Tasters looked at examples of Garnacha rosados, for which the region initially rose to prominence, plus the now globally fashionable red Garnachas (or Grenaches), which the region excels at producing. Evans also addressed how the region has such a mix of grape varieties compared with many of its rivals, explaining how and why the international varieties fit in.

“Merlot and Cabernet and Chardonnay have, of course, been well established for quite some time, so it’s not as if they are new and finding their place, and in the right places they are working really well,” said Evans.

She also described the Garnachas as “highly enjoyable”, which was borne out by the selection tasted, also delivering praise for the quality of Chardonnay, which has its own Navarran imprint in terms of fresh and poised character.

“Undoubtedly there are two markets, there are people who would like the international varieties and blends, and then people who will go for the native Spanish grapes, or the dark rosés, so Navarra has triple or even quadruple messages to send out to people,” she continued.

“Continue to talk about rosés and dark rosés, continue to talk about Garnacha, because that’s really caught the imagination of a new generation, and continue to say that if you want a classic Chardonnay from Spain, this is the place to come, and continue to talk about the good, traditional blends of Cabernet and Merlot because this is also the place to come,” urged Evans.

A proud old kingdom, Navarra nonetheless also seems a young region in the sense that winemakers continue to explore with different varieties and differing expressions of the more mainstay grapes here, harnessing the variations in soil and climate across the sub-zones to great effect. Roughly speaking, the region straddles some 100km from the foothills of the Pyrenees to the Ebro river in the south, both of which help determine the climate here, along with the not-so-distant waters of both the Bay of Biscay and the Mediterranean. Hence the five quite distinct winemaking sub-regions, and the scope for a wide range of wine styles.

Diverse it may be, but Navarra’s elements all add up to one of the most modern and enticing wine regions in Spain – and a buyers’ paradise for any looking to add those all-important points of difference to their Spanish portfolio.

NAVARRAN MIX

More than 70% of the vineyards are dedicated to native varieties. Reds account for the lion’s share of production at round 63%, with whites standing at 13%, and rosado close to a quarter of Navarra’s vinous output.

In terms of the most planted varieties, Tempranillo leads the reds, followed by Garnacha (but which is also used for rosados), with Merlot and Cabernet also significant, followed by smaller quantities of such grapes as Graciano, Syrah, Mazuelo and even Pinot Noir (which can work well here).

Of the whites, Chardonnay is the clear front runner, and by some way, with Viura, then Sauvignon Blanc, plus Moscatel (also making some delicious sweet wines) and Garnacha Blanc well represented.

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