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Parker defends grenache tasting to angry Rioja producers

Robert Parker has defended his decision to host a mass grenache masterclass tasting at the Wine Future 09 conference in Rioja after fierce criticism from local producers.

The tasting, which attracted over 530 people and is thought to be biggest of its kind ever held in Europe, saw some Rioja producers boycott the event in protest as it was not based on wines or varieties indigenous to the region.

One leading producer told harpers.co.uk it would be like a car expert doing a talk to Porsche manufacturers in Stuttgart about the wonders of Ferrari. "It is a disgrace. It is his first time in Rioja and this is how he treats us. I am very angry," he said.

Parker, however, told the audience at the tasting last night that it was not meant to be slight to Rioja but he had chosen grenache, or gernacha, for his tasting as a "homage to Spain".

He said as that this was a world wine conference with delegates from nearly 60 countries he wanted to do a tasting that could compare wines from around the world. He argued he would not have been able to do the same level of tasting if it had only been based around Rioja´s indigenous tempranillo variety - before adding how much he also "loved" the variety.

As this was an "educational tasting" he had to choose a varietal that could demonstrate the diverse styles of wine that could be made from the one grape. And as he wanted to bring in wines from California, Australia, France as well as Spain grenache fitted the bill perfectly.

He also stressed that during the 31 years he has spent as a wine critic, Spain had witnessed the biggest "revolution" in terms of its wine quality than any other country in the world.

The tasting which covered 20 wines included 18 grenache-based wines, seven from France, two from California, five from Spain and four from Australia. But with a nod to his hosts it also included two wines from Rioja; a 1945 Marques de Riscal Reserva and a Contador 2007.

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