MATTHEW JUKES celebrates Spain and says that there are better Spanish wines on the shelves today than ever before'. He's picked out his top selection from this year, including 2004/5 Torres Via Esmeralda, Peneds (4.66-6.29; Oddbins, Tesco, Waitrose, Wine Rack): The value for money and crowd-pleasing aroma and flavour of Esmeralda is staggering.'