Financial Times

JANCIS ROBINSON MW tries to avoid a hangover with a push for less alcohol in today's wines. She has noticed the beginnings of an 'uprising [against high levels of alcohol] among thoughtful wine producers', but is unconvinced by most of the techniques that have been tried so far. But perhaps Grard Gauby of Roussillon has found a solution. His Muntada wine used to be just short of the 15% mark, but 'since 2000 he has been completely biodynamic. And now his wines taste quite different just as flavourful but with more acidity and less alcohol and obvious sweetness.'