Seeing as vins de pays make up one-third of all wine produced in France, JOANNA SIMON is surprised that 'some people (especially French people) are still sniffy about them'. She recommends 2004 La Chasse du Pape Syrah (4.99; Sainsbury's); 2004 Grenache Noir, Jeunes Vignes, Domaine Jorel (5.50; Stone, Vine & Sun); and 2003 Cazal Viel Grande Reserve Viognier (7.99; Threshers).