Gulliver’s travels

Trevor Gulliver can certainly talk, but then he has much of interest to say. As business partner to Fergus Henderson and his very individual style of cooking, he’s one half of the seminal nose-to-tail restaurant St John, which radically reset the idea of what modern British food could be. To this day, a deceptive simplicity underpins the quality of what is on the plate. Since St John’s first outpost opened its doors in 1994, this Smithfield icon has had a huge influence on the ever-evolving British dining scene. A little like the Delta blues and its influence on modern rock & roll. And one of St John’s biggest disciples, the late Anthony Bourdain, would have likely enjoyed that musical analogy.