"The best 2004s [Barolo] are so good I wanted to break into song," raves Tim Atkin MW. However, the Observer critic is not stopping there. "This is the greatest vintage I have ever tasted, more approachable than the almost as impressive 2001s, and just as complex, nuanced and perfumed." Consumers wishing to share Atkin's excitement should opt for the "silky scented" 2004 Barolo Serralunga, Paolo Manzone (21.75, Adnams) or the "stylish, sweetly-oaked" 2004 Barolo Massolino (30.49, Liberty Wines).
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Susy Atkins is thinking outside the bag-in-box this week with her analysis of pairing wine with Asian salads. Her first tip is to stay away from the cold lager usually drunk with Asian cuisine as "wines work so much better when you've got a fresh dish that lines up, say, chicken with salad leaves, peas, chilli and lime juice". The "unusual" 2006/07 Rueda Cuatro Rayas Verdejo (6.49, M&S) is mentioned for its "dry, snappy edge" making it great with salads.
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Ballsy New World producers looking to make their name tend to stage blind tastings and pit their wines against the established Old World names, reveals Joanna Simon. "You have nothing to lose," she explains as they either make their reputation or become simply "a work in progress". One man who had this approach down to a tee was the late, great Robert Mondavi, Simon adds. The 2007 Chilean Sauvignon (6.99, Sainsbury's TTD) made it into her cellar notes this week for its "vivid herby, gooseberry fruit".
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Victoria Moore's brief this week? To find some sub-10 Loire Sauvignon Blanc alternatives and rivals "that, while not cheap, may offer better value than a similarly priced Sancerre". Her choices? She ran with a 2006 Quincy Domaine de la Pierre (8.99, Waitrose), which is "ideal for those who don't like a sense of fruitiness to interefere and want something to sip as an apertif". Moore also recommends the "unexpected" 2006 Touraine Domaine des Trois Demoiselles (7.50, Berry Bros & Rudd) with a "gravity you wouldn't expect in something as simple as Sauvignon Blanc".
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Victoria Moore hits upon the touchy subject of Pinot Grigio this week. Despite gargantuan sales year-on-year she admits "to some wine buffs it is virtually the anti-wine: indistinct, uninteresting, bland". However, the first wine Moore enjoyed was a Veneto Pinot Grigio whilst eating a bacon, avocado and gruyre salad and for this reason it will also hold a place in her heart. Her top scoring wines are the 2007 Pinot Grigio Friuli (7.99, M&S) and the 2007 Pinot Grigio Neszmly, Hungary (4.79, M&S), which is a "miracle" for under a fiver.
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Jamie Goode has been gifted a double page spread in the Express this week, no less than he deserves for a round-up of the best red wines on the market. A recommendation for the thrifty is the "utterly delicious" 2007 Garnacha Red Gran Tesoro (2.99, Tesco). If you are looking to the next price bracket, the 2006 Piedra Azul, Toro (7.95, Berry Bros & Rudd) is worth investigating. For those flush souls who want to blow the budget, he picks out the 2001 Hermitage Jean-Louis Chave Rouge (120, Yapp Brothers), which is "worth every penny of its astronomical price tag".
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Tim Atkin MW touches on the subject of black-owned vineyards in South Africa, or lack thereof. "Many of the black workers who toil in the vineyards and wineries of the largely white-owned, white run wine industry come from [South Africa's] townships." But thanks to the ANC's policy of land reform and black economic empowerment (BEE) things are changing, Atkin adds. Labels to look out for include Thandi, M'Hudi, Seven Sisters, Lindiwe and Bouwland among others. The 2007 Cabernet/Shiraz Fairhills (5.19, Tesco) is mentioned for its smooth, spicy, sweetly oaked" notes and the 2006 Cinsault/Merlot Origin (6.99, Threshers) also gets a mention. Atkin admits "buying one of these wines won't change the South African wine industry overnight, but it's a start."
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"The most incredible thing to put in your mouth between gulps of crisp Loire Sauvignon Blanc is Crottin de Chavignol, the local goat's cheese," says Victoria Moore. The topic is, of course, Sancerre and she has plenty of recommendations. The 2007 Sancerre Les Ruettes (10.99, Marks & Spencer) "has a swell of green reminiscent of undulating fields in June" while the 2007 Sancerre Domaine Vacheron (14.99, Majestic) "does not disappoint". One final word of warning from Moore though, "Sancerre isn't cheap, and cheap Sancerre isn't worth it".
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Tim Atkin MW recounts one of his favourite German wine stories in his weekly column. It occurred at Vinopolis' London opening while a smattering of journalists were shown around with accompanying headsets and commentary. One writer nipped to the pristine new toilets for a piddle only to hear "Welcome to Wines of Germany" ringing in his ears. Much has changed since then, says Atkin, and Riesling in particular has led the renaissance recently. He recommends the 2006 Dartling Estate Riesling (6.99, Marks & Spencer), the 2007 Spy Valley Riesling Malborough (7.99, Bibendum) and the "lime-scented" 2007 Tingleup Great Southern Riesling (5.99, Tesco).
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Which wines pair well with Italian pasta dishes, asks Susy Atkins this week. Valpolicella, Dolcetto and Barbera are all a "clever choice" for the classic combination of tomato sauce and chorizo, she feels. A chilled Pinot Grigio or Pinot Blanco goes well with creamy fettucine, Atkins adds, but it needn't be expensive, as "no one spends a fortune on a wine to go with an easy pasta supper". Among her wines of the week is the 2007 Gavi, Italy (6.99, Sainsbury's), which is "excellent" with a rich tomato sauce.
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"There's a general perception that fish is easy to match with wine," says Susy Atkins but her terrible pairing of mackerel and Viognier last week put paid to this assertion. Her recommendations for matching the two include the 2006/07 Cabernet Sauvignon Ros Santa Rita (6.24, Majestic) which is "a succulent wine for a fishy barbecue, especially with sardines and salad or the 2007 Muscadet Sevre et Maine (4.99, M&S) which is "versatile with all oily fish, and seafood".
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Whenever Joanna Simon finds herself explaining Ctes du Rhne to someone she wonders, "which of us will fall asleep first?" She ploughs on regardless, however, as "understanding the hierarchy of the southern Rhne appellations contrles (AOCs) opens the door to some of France's best-value reds". The 2006 Ctes du Rhne-Villages (5.99, Sainsbury's TTD) features for "spiced-raspberry fruit and soft, savoury tannin".
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Jancis Robinson MW is once again mulling over Bordeaux and the surprising vintage that was 2007. "It was," she feels "difficult not to be struck by how much more guts the whites had" - something that was particularly true of the "sweet whites." Despite the 2007 desserts not possessing the "finesse" of the 2001s, they come highly recommended nonetheless. Among the chteaux where sweets scored at least 17.5 out of 20 on the Robinson scale were d'Yquem, Rieussec, Raymond Lafon and Climens.
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There is little mileage for consumers looking to buy Bordeaux 2007 en primeur, says Anthony Rose. "It's a sound enough vintage, good in parts" he reasons, "but only in the best of years is it worth shelling out in advance". Rose says one of the region's virtues is that good claret "doesn't have to cost an arm and both legs". Elsewhere he recommends the 2006 Shiraz Shaw and Smith (18.49, Noel Young) for its "distinctly savoury, peppery undertones of Adelaide Hills' cool climate vineyards".
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Jancis Robinson MW touches on some research out last week, which attributed a drop in Chardonnay sales to the tragic singleton Bridget Jones effect. "I would argue that the Anything But Chardonnay' (ABC) sentiment is at its peak right now," she said. In fact, the "wine world seems thoroughly bored by Chardonnay at the moment," unless of course you refer to it as Montrachet, Grand Cru Chablis or Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Robinson concedes.
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Victoria Moore had a strict brief from her mother last week, which was to find "a white wine to give to lots of people whose tastes I don't know". The Guardian critic took this to mean no Sauvignon Blanc "or any other white in which searing, reverberating acidity is the key". Instead she opted for Chieti's Terra Viva, from the Italian province of Abruzzo which fits the brief perfectly given "it's relatively neutral". She adds: "even more crucially, it has the barest touch of soothing sugar". Other options for Moore's mother included the 2006 Saumur Blanc Les Andides (5.99, Waitrose) that fits in "the ideal first glass of wine" bracket.
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Jancis Robinson MW was at a Bordeaux tasting of La Mission wines organised by Farr Vintners last week. The wines ranged from 2005 back to 1929 making Robinson and the 29 other guests assembled from six different countries "extremely grateful" for the experience. The FT critic helpfully categorised the top La Missions into Great Vintages" (including 2005, 2000 and 1959 among others) and "Less Predictable Successes" (encapsulating 2004, 1999 and 1978 among others).
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Resurging French wine sales in the UK are helpful in jogging the memory of some lesser-known appellations, Joanna Simon believes. Forget Bordeaux and think more to the south and east, she says, with Madiran, Ctes de Saint-Mont, Cahors, Gaillac and Fronton all names to look out for. The 2004 Cahors, Le Petit Clos Triguedina (7.99, Waitrose) has "classic blackberry and graphite flavours with fine tannins" while the 2005 Madiran Rserve des Tuguets (4.99, Tesco) features for its "herb and wood-smoke flavours".
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Pinot Noir is one of the few exceptions to the widely held truism that the best value wines cost between 6 and 9, Victoria Moore feels. This is not because "a 5 bottle of Pinot Noir can't be good", she hastens to add, more that by moving to the 10 mark "you begin to find wines that start to get it". Moore says it is at this point when "suddenly, the fairy dust comes out, the light goes on, some kind of magic sparkle arrives that simply wasn't there before". The Guardian critic says: "Either you're prepared to pay it and get it or you're not." If you fall into the former bracket, she suggests the 2005 Pinot Noir Martinborough Vineyard (22, Harrods) or the 2005 Pinot Noir Cte de Beaune (92 for six bottles, Armit).
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Jane MacQuitty says tasting pink wines in the run-up to summer is no longer the struggle it once was. "My pink wine tasting success rate this summer was far higher than that achieved for either whites or reds," she explains. Among her favourites are the 2007 Las Falleras Ros (3.79, M&S) "with its pleasant, grapey fruit" and the 2007 Gran Tesoro Garnacha Ros (3.19, Tesco). If you fancy trading up, MacQuitty recommends you try the "rich, raspberry-stashed" 2007 Chteau d'Aqueria Tavel Ros (Majestic, 9.99).
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