Ballsy New World producers looking to make their name tend to stage blind tastings and pit their wines against the established Old World names, reveals Joanna Simon. "You have nothing to lose," she explains as they either make their reputation or become simply "a work in progress". One man who had this approach down to a tee was the late, great Robert Mondavi, Simon adds. The 2007 Chilean Sauvignon (6.99, Sainsbury's TTD) made it into her cellar notes this week for its "vivid herby, gooseberry fruit".