It's not all "doom and gloom" despite Australian wine exports dropping for the first time since 1995, says Joanna Simon. The country's value sales were up for the 12 months and the 2008 harvest looks to be healthy due to a late bout of rain in November. However, there will be no return to "rock-bottom prices" and we can expect "the tidal waves of Bogofs" to end as well. Simon recommends the 2006 Pinot Noir Yarra Valley (13.49, Tesco) with its "nutmeg aromas" and the "spicy and focused" 2005 reserve Shiraz Margaret River (6.99, Real Wine Company).