MATTHEW JUKES' selection of festive choices is, he says, the easiest column of the year to write, as more effort has been put into perfecting sparkling wine than any other category of wine in the world over the past few years. Good cava is hard to come by outside its native country,' but 2001 Marqus de Monistrol Vintage Cava, Peneds, Spain (7.99, reduced to 3.99 until 31 December, Co-op) is a top wine, with a discount that seems very bizarre to me. This is the party wine of the year. I put my name on it, and as you know, I am a very fussy taster.'