The Observer

TIM ATKIN MW returns to Brunello di Montalcino after a bad tasting experience in a badly heated tent four years previously. This time the experience is altogether more pleasant, with Turneresque sunrises and wines with prices 'north of 20'. He commends the 2001 vintage, but describes 2002 as 'awful'. Nevertheless, Atkin reckons the average Brunello is better than the other Sangiovese regions, Chianti and Montepulciano. He recommends: 2004 Rossi di Montalcino, Talenti (11.20; Bibendum); 2001 Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio alle Mura, Castello Banfi (22; Majestic); Brunello di Montalcino, Fattoria dei Barbi (26; Swig); and the 2001 Brunello di Montalcino, Costanti (34.95; Liberty).