Drinking Greek wine, for VICTORIA MOORE, recalls 'the land of Homer and the Oracle of Delphi, rather than, say, Suntours and all-night ouzo-drinking competitions'. Moore reckons this is 'because many Greek wines are made with very distinctive native varieties (many of them totally unpronounceable), so when you drink them they don't kickstart associations with other wines and places. They also have a fierceness and intricacy that seems to suit the land they come from.' Greece's atavistic qualities can be found in 2003 Ambelones Vassiliou Dry White (6.49; Booths); 2004 Biblia Chora White (8.49; Booths); and 2002 Naoussa Boutari (6.49; Oddbins).