The Sunday Times

JOANNA SIMON profiles all the major Champagne houses. She informs us that Canard-Duchne makes a good present for 'Pinot Grigio drinkers, and anyone who won't serve it the next time you call round'; Heidsieck Monopole should be drunk only 'with your hand over the label'; Lanson fans should opt for the Gold Label Vintage or Nobel Cuve 'if you're not a footballer's wife'; and the days are now gone, apparently, 'when Mumm Cordon Rouge was one of the cheapest non-vintages; so, too, is the era when it tasted of boiled cabbage and sour cream'.