The Daily Telegraph

JONATHAN RAY organises an impromptu tasting of Blue Nun and Black Tower for David Roberts MW. Rays find the Blue Nun just this side of harmless', but Roberts is downcast': I just think it's sad. Germany produces some of the finest white wines in the world, but you wouldn't think so given this evidence.' Ray then meets Ernst Loosen, who took over his family's Mosel estates in the late 1980s. Everyone thought I was mad,' he tells Ray, trying to sell Riesling when all that people wanted to drink was New World Chardonnay. It was so frustrating and nobody wanted to know. But 20 years' hard work has paid off, and I truly believe there has been a renaissance and that Riesling, especially German Riesling, is fashionable once again.'