Headline Heroes: Zero dosage gains traction

Since Laurent-Perrier pioneered the modern zero dosage style of champagne with the launch of its Ultra Brut in 1981, the practice has been adopted by many Champagne houses, thanks in no small part to the effects of climate change. As there is no addition of sugar in the creation of non-dosage, winemakers must rely on greater ripening of the grapes to achieve balance and the correct acidity, and progressively warmer growing seasons mean producers are now achieving phenolic ripeness and higher natural sugar levels at harvest, as sommelier and wine consultant Jonathan Kleeman explains.