Unusual Suspects: Spain's indigenous wealth

Remember when Spain was associated with just a handful of familiar names? That feels like another era today. In 2026, an ever-broader kaleidoscope of indigenous grapes and emerging regions is appearing on restaurant wine lists and the shelves of specialist merchants, reflecting a country that has matured considerably since the 20th century. Meanwhile, consumers are embracing fresher styles, seeking wines with moderate alcohol levels – Mencía fits the bill perfectly – and a stronger sense of place. As a result, Spain’s growing diversity is no longer simply an exciting point of difference. It has become a decisive commercial advantage, as Godello, Bobal and Palomino no longer elicit bafflement from consumers.