Small wonders
The premium wines from the Northern Rhne have recently experienced a remarkable surge in popularity, led by Robert Parker's enthusiasm for Cte Rtie.
Stphane Robert runs this tiny winery in St Pray and produces just 1,500 cases of wine per year, either Cornas AC made from 100% Syrah or St Pray AC made from 80% Marsanne/20% Roussanne. The 2003 Prestige cuve is made from 70-year-old vines, cool fermented and 20% aged in new oak. The wine is bone dry with a touch of vanilla and peach, elegant and superb value at €10 a bottle. However, this is also not a well-kept secret, and the wine is sold out. Watch out for the 2004.
The 2002 Cornas is delicious, tar-nosed, gamey and with a mouthful of morello cherries followed by a peppery finish an ideal accompaniment to steak au poivre. A little of this is still available.
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56-58 Church Walk, Burgess Hill, West Sussex, RH15 9AN
Registered in England No. 6646125. VAT No. 938 4452 95
