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Tim Atkin MW: Mourning a giant of wine

Published:  14 April, 2026

Twenty-five years ago, when Michel Rolland was in his pomp, I was lucky enough to have dinner with him in London. I arrived early and was sitting alone at the table ordering my thoughts. Two Portuguese winemakers saw me and asked if I’d like to join them. “I’m waiting for Michel Rolland,” I told them. If I’d said I was dining with Cristiano Ronaldo, they couldn’t have been more impressed. “Would he taste our wines?” one enquired.

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