Wines in the Press: From Californian Chardonnay to century-old nectars

Published: 25 November, 2008

Jancis Robinson MW acquaints herself with wines from a bygone era and Jane MacQuitty lets us in on which tipples will be getting her through the winter months. Meanwhile Tim Atkin MW explains why his political persuasion is re-igniting his passion for American wines.

Jancis Robinson acquaints herself with wines from a bygone era and Jane MacQuitty lets us in on which tipples will be getting her through the winter months. Meanwhile Tim Atkin MW explains why his political persuasion is re-igniting his passion for American wines.

Jancis Robinson MW, The Financial Times, Saturday 22 November 2008

There is an upside to unfashionable wines, points out Jancis Robinson - people don't buy them and so stocks tend to accumulate, so increasing the chance to find hidden gems years down the line. "In the current era, this is particularly true of strong, sweet wines", notes Robinson, who has recently had the chance to taste a series of century-old nectars. The 1907 and 1908 Seppeltsfield Para fortified wines - "burnished fox-red, dried fig-like essences taken directly from ancient casks" being two such examples. All Para wines are made in the image of port, but, says Robinson, "I have tasted nothing from Portugal remotely like 100-year-old Para, the jewel in Seppeltsfield's crown." It has been released since 1978 (when the wine was that of 1878), making Seppeltsfield "the only winery in the world to release a 100-year-old wine every year".

Jane MacQuitty, The Times, Saturday 22 November 2008

This week Jane MacQuitty recommends her top 25 winter wines for under £6. Zesty soaves, spicy sauvignon blancs and beefy reds all feature in a list dominated by the supermarkets; picks from Morrisons, Waitrose, Asda and Sainsbury's all feature alongside a peppering of choices from specialist retailers Oddbins and Majestic. Recent wine retailer of the year Marks & Spencer (according to Decanter) also fares well in MacQuitty's line up, with three picks to rival conglomerate Tesco's one. White picks include the credit-crunch busting Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne Blanc, France (£3.69, Sainsbury's) - an "easy-glugging celery, cucumber and grapefruit-zest styled fruit" and of red wines, the 2007 Baglio Nero d'Avola, Sicily, (£5.49, Marks & Spencer) gets the thumbs up for its "funky lilac label, capsule and cork, and funky wine within".

Other picks this week include:

? 2007 La Grille Sauvignon Blanc, La Bestiole, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire, Karen Teruel, France (£5.48, Asda)
? 2007 Cornejo Costas Torrontés, Valle de Cafayate, Argentina (£5.99, Oddbins)
? 2007 Sicilian Red, Cantine Settesoli, Italy (£2.98, Asda)
? 2000 Izar de Nekeas Reserva, Navarra, Bodegas Nekeas, Spain (£5.99 for two bottles, Majestic)

Victoria Moore, The Guardian, Saturday 22 November 2008

Roast chicken is Victoria Moore's ultimate comfort food, which is why she has chosen to make it the focus of this week's column. It's one of those dishes that can be cooked a hundred different ways ("with nutmeg and prosciutto à la River Cafe, with tarragon butter, with courgette and parmesan stuffing, with half a lemon and lots of garlic cloves getting hot and squishy inside it...") - and as such a bit of research into finding the perfect wine to accompany it is worthwhile. Chardonnay might seem like the most obvious choice, but a light red can bring just as much to the table says Moore - especially when serving firmer meat with a gamier taste. Elsewhere, Moore's top pick this week is the "chalky, yeasty, clean, saline and dry" 2007 La Maison Carrée Auvernier Neuchatel Blanc, Switzerland (£10.99, Wholefoods).

Tim Atkin MW, The Observer, Sunday 23 November 2008

During the Bush years, Tim Atkin's enthusiasm for California Chardonnay, Oregon Pinot Noir and Washington State Merlot was minimal, but he's suddenly become a lot more interested in the stuff. He still brands the majority of the Californian wine "sweet, confected and, more often than not, pink", and despises those "three dull brands" that dominate the landscape; Blossom Hill, Gallo and Echo Falls. But Atkin is hopeful that the "Obama factor" might just make the "lazy" buyers of the major supermarket and off-licence chains work harder in 2009. There are some good sub-£10 Californian wines out there, he says, but you need to be selective. Atkin would recommend the "scented, apricotty" 2007 The Boulders Viognier, California (£4.99, the Co-op), and the "mint and bramble-like" 2005 Cycles Gladiator Merlot, Central Coast (£6.99, Waitrose; Booths) amongst others.

Atkin's buy of the week is:

? 2006 Craggy Range Block 14 Syrah, Gimblett Gravels (£19.95, Jeroboams)