Geoffrey Dean: Provence blog, Part One, Chateau Minuty

This is, of course, the time of the year when legions of well-heeled Brits (and yes Russians) flock to St Tropez and other famous spots on the French Riviera. Well, the southern Provence natives are about to launch a kind of reverse invasion of their own this summer when one of the leading crus classes from the C?tes de Provence, Chateau Minuty, attempts to secure a bridgehead in the British wine market.

The 75 hectares of Minuty vines overlook the bays of St Tropez and Pampelonne, lying close to the villages of Gassin and Ramatuelle. The famous chateau and private chapel was built during Napoleon III's reign in the 19th century by the Germondi family, but it is the Matton-Farnets, owners since 1936, who have established Minuty's reputation as the one of the best rose producers not just in Europe but world-wide.

As much as 70% of Minuty's production each year is rosé. While there are bound to be readers who instinctively jump and down and write rosé off as alcoholic ribena (I used to be one of them), they should try the pink Minuty. It is outstanding.

There are three different ones, all predominantly made from grenache vines around 30 years old, with some tibouren and cinsault thrown in, but the fruit is gorgeous and they are not too acidic. All grapes are hand-harvested.

When I tasted at the delightful old vineyards last week, Francois Matton, winemaker and joint-owner with his brother Jean-Etienne, sought to explain the quality of his wines. "The secret of good rosé is to have a very fruity wine with a little acidity for the freshness," he said.

"Our fruit here is very rich because of the sun, and there is a lot of sun in Provence. Tibouren offers structure and a taste other rosés don't have. It gives fruit de la passion!"

Ripeness and quality of the fruit notwithstanding, Minuty use the vinification technique 'pressurage direct' to telling effect. This lasts 20 only, the time that is needed for some juice to seep out of grapes in the press before it is switched on and run down through the press' holes into the large tray underneath. By contrast, the saignee method, where a certain amount of free-run juice is bled from just-crushed grapes, involves two to four hours contact with the skins. Minuty's top rosé, Rosé et Or, is made from juice that is 100% pressurage direct, while even the more everyday drinking range, 'M', has 60% from that technique, with the remainder saignee-derived.

For many years, the UK market has represented a small one for Minuty, about 2.5% of total production, something Matton is keen to change. "British people are coming here to St Tropez on holiday and saying our rose is interesting and that more is needed in the UK," Matton revealed.

"Would you believe it but last year we exported 15,000 bottles of Minuty to Barbados, so that those British who come here for their summers here can drink it when they go to the Caribbean in the winter."

Matton, therefore, is launching a charm offensive in London later this month when he visits Robersons, who stock some of his wines. "For the last ten years, we have sold all our wine and could sell another 30% if we could produce it. We export to 55 countries but we should be strong in London as it is one of the big cities of Europe. I'm not interested in volume but the making the brand more famous. We want to be in the best places to show we are a serious wine."

Of that there is no doubt. And I have not even told you about the excellent estate red (made mainly from 30-year old mourvedre vines) or the elegant, deliciously refreshing 'Prestige' white made predominantly from the rolle grape with a dash of semillon. The latter will set you back a cool 55 euros at the pool bar in St Tropez's ritzy Byblos Hotel, but when retailed at around a quarter of that price in London, it will be very good value. So is the full range for drinkers who like a bit of variety without compromising on quality.

• Harpers Says...