Paul Morgan: ‘Looking Back, Forging Ahead’

By Harpers Editorial team

Published: 07 August, 2026

Next up in our annual summer Q&A is Paul Morgan, owner of dynamic Brighton wine hub Fourth and Church. Here he reflects on the year to date for his restaurant-cum-bar-cum-wine shop; his hopes for the future; the challenges of operating an indie business; and what the decision makers in Whitehall could do to ease the burden.

How has business been for you in the first half of 2026 and how do things compare to where you were last year?

First quarter 2026 was a challenge, sales were up on 2025 which was encouraging, but the increase in operating costs across the board were difficult to navigate cash flow wise. We worked very hard at controlling staff costs by not replacing two full time members of staff who left during December. There was lots of promotional activity and additional events during February and March that helped turnover.

What are you most proud of achieving this year in terms of driving the business forward?

We are immensely proud of our team and how they all work together on a daily basis, pushing forward. They are all super passionate about what we do and are all very flexible in relation to the shifts that need to be covered in any given week. Our small, professional and knowledgeable team are a testament to how joyous the hospitality and wine industry can be, even in such challenging times.

What have been the biggest challenges so far this year and how have you sought to circumvent those?

The inconsistent and unpredictable levels of business have created uncertainty when it comes to recruitment of people and the additional funds required for training and investment in our team.

The levels of cost associated with employment are absolutely out of context to what we need to charge our customers across all of our menus. During these difficult economic times it is essential we offer value and generosity as encouragement for customers to visit us regularly, our already tiny margins have been eroded to the extent of the business just about breaking even.

However we remain upbeat and continue to communicate directly with the community that we operate in, both regular customers and suppliers, about the positives within our business. We look forward with baited breath to the possibility of some assistance directed to small businesses from a new government administration that will strengthen our high street.

Looking ahead to the second half of the year, what do you have in the pipeline?

We cannot stand still, we will continue to invest in our team and offer exemplary, personal service to our guests. Our portfolio of wines will continue to grow as will our relationships with the merchants and producers we work with. After several months of planning and licence applications the autumn will see the first shipment of wines that we import ourselves.

An overhaul of our online business and website is also planned alongside some exciting PR projects that we hope will extend our visibility and profile outside of the local area. After a hugely successful #31DaysGermanwines during July, we have several events and masterclasses planned for the summer and into the Autumn. September will be about visiting some our friends and producers in Spain, particularly in Gredos, to offer our support following the devastating fires during July.

Then November will be all about International Sherry Week and as our favourite wine category we will be extending the focus throughout the month with a series of tastings, dinners and wine pairings across the menu with of course some rare cellar stock being opened.

What significant or emerging trends are you seeing in the drinks’ world that are likely to have an impact on the future nature of trade?

Consolidation of companies that are not nimble and cannot react to market changes and trends quickly enough. We all need to look at what we can do to contribute to the fight against global warming – our leaders are not dealing with this and we continue to see our planet heat up and burn! We were high in the mountains of Gredos in June visiting a small wine fair and were blown away by the beauty of the countryside, only to be returning in September and being horrified of what we will see following the wild fires last month. This cannot continue and as an industry we must all look at how we work sustainably in relation to viticulture, packaging, logistics and every process related to our business.

From government, consumers, or the trade itself, what change(s) would you most like to see to help your business and others to thrive?

The obvious from the government would be some focus on the hospitality sector, a reduction in VAT would help with investment in our business and people and the opportunity to continue improving the high street landscape. Some joined up thinking when it comes to encouraging young people to join our industry through colleges, and a rethink of apprenticeship models would be useful.

Our industry provides the chance for young people to communicate directly with the general public in a structured environment improving all aspects of life skills. With the correct training and support in their early years (which comes as a cost) we will develop a young workforce who will be confident in the workplace and fill the gaps created by the myriad of events that have taken place over the last decade such as leaving the EU and the pandemic.

What fills you with joy and optimism about the drinks world?

A room full of enthusiastic customers, enjoying a glass or bottle of something that we recommend is the best reward for our efforts. We love to take people out of their comfort zone in relation to their choices of what to drink. The link between the producers we work with and their stories, communicated to our customers, is wonderful to be a part of.

Nothing gives us more joy than talking to our customers about the growers we work with and the incredible work that takes place in their vineyards and wineries. It is a privilege to be able to convey the passion and expertise that pours into our guests’ glasses.

Any other predictions for the second half of the year?

People will become more familiar and enjoy the amazing value and quality of unfortified wines from Cadiz. Grower champagne will continue to grow in popularity as well Cremants and sparkling wines from lesser well known appellations. Classic martinis will take off.

Quick fire questions…

Burgundy or Bordeaux?

Aligote from Burgundy

Germany or Greece?

Tough question but Germany

Pet nat or Prosecco?

Neither! Grower champagne from small producers who create a layered and complex wine first and foremost, the mousse is just an added delicious bonus

A bottle or by the glass?

Magnum

Whisky, rum, gin or tequila/mezcal (for sipping)?

Mezcal

Go to cocktail?

Vesper Martini

Sharing plates or structured meal?

Both work handsomely for me

Perfect wine and music pairing?

‘Kind of Blue’ whilst snacking on cantabrian anchovies, sipping on a fine Amontillado and preparing a seafood feast for my favourite people

Desert island treat?

Vodka Martinis and caviar